Showing posts with label mother's day. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mother's day. Show all posts

Thursday, May 10, 2018

Mother's Day Rose


Mother’s Day Rose


With Mother’s Day approaching my crafting bug is itching.  I teach art to students K-8th grade during the day and run a polymer clay after school program in the afternoon..  My clay kids have created hands holding flowers for their moms (turned into pins and magnets).  Some of my art classes have created cards and dimensional flowers.  So of course flowers are at the forefront of my mind.
When I received my Creative PaperClay™ and Delight™ ari dry modeling compound I immediately thought of roses!  Ooooooooooo, super simple amazing roses.  Could be a pin, could be a magnet…a forever rose for Mom ♥
 IMG_6260
Materials:
Delight™ air dry modeling compound
Crayola® washable markers
damp paper towel
Optional:  scissors or knife, pinback or magnet, superglue

Step 1: Open a package of Delight™ clay and pull off a small amount.  Place on top of damp paper towel and fold towel over the top to keep clay moist.  IMG_6231
Rewrap the remaining clay in a ziploc baggie and press out the air.
Step 2:  Remove clay from paper towel and pull off about half (place remainder back in damp paper towel)  Flatten in your hand.  Choose a color for your flower and begin to dab clay.
IMG_6232
Step 3:  Mix the color into the clay by kneading.  Add more color if the color is too light (I repeated the process three times to get a deep pink).  NOTE:  Color will darken as the clay dries
.IMG_6234
Step 4: Divide into 6 balls.  Place them on top of the damp paper towel until you are ready to shape them.  IMG_6237
Step 5: Roll one of the balls into a short log.  IMG_6238
Flatten the log to about 1/8″ thick.  IMG_6239
Pinch the entire top edge from end to end between your thumb and forefinger.
This is to create a natural edge for your flower (a rose).            img_6240.jpg
Step 6: Roll the flattened log from one end to the other.  Make sure your fingers are rolling at the bottom (the thicker edge).  This will help the thin edge to flare out as you roll.     IMG_6241  This becomes the center of your rose.
Using a finger, gently flare out/ruffle the top edge.  Set aside (on top of damp paper towel to keep it from drying).  IMG_6243
Step 7:  Take two more of the balls.  Shape each into a teardrop shape by flattening into a round and then pinching one end.  Adjust the thickness as you go so the teardrops end up about 1/8″ thick.  IMG_6244  Pinch the top edge of each teardrop between your thumb and forefinger (just like you did for the center of the flower) to give it a natural edge.  These are your first 2 petals.  IMG_6245
Step 8:  Pick up the center of the flower.  Wrap one petal around one side and the other petal around the other side.  The petals will overplap just as a natural flower would do.  Be sure to focus all the pressure on the bottom part of the flower (thicker part).  Once you are happy with the look, gently flare out the top edge to create a natural looking petal.  IMG_6246
Repeat process with remaining 3 balls.   IMG_6247IMG_6248
Step 9: Cup your hand and gently turn the rose over in it.  Use scissors to cut the bottom off flat.  IMG_6250
Place excess clay (that you cut off) back under the damp paper towel to keep it moist.  Place the “cut” rose on top of damp paper towel while you create a couple of leaves.IMG_6253
Step 10: Remove uncolored Delight™ clay from damp paper towel.  Repeat coloring process (steps 2-3) with chosen leaf color (as you can see I chose bright green).  Roll clay into balls.  One at a time flatten the balls, then pinch into teardrop shape.IMG_6252  IMG_6254 IMG_6255
Pinch the edges flat to create a more natural look.  Leave the bottom of the teardrop thick.  NOTE:  The back edge of the scissors can be used to impress a line down the center 
Step 11:  Turn the rose over in your hand one more time.  Position the leaves and then gently press into place.  Do not use too much pressure or the rose petals can flatten.  IMG_6258    IMG_6257
Set the completed rose on your work surface.  Make sure the bottom is somewhat level.  If not, pick it back up and gently press the bottom to flatten.  Petals and leaves can be adjusted if necessary.  Set the rose aside to dry (overnight should do it) and then add a pinback or magnet if desired.
IMG_6260s

Wednesday, May 3, 2017

Dancing With My Heavenly Mother #artbygloricom

 
 
 

Dancing With My Heavenly Mother By Gloriann Irizarry

 
Hello to all Creative Paperclay Material®  friends, artist and followers. It is Gloriann Irizarry from www.byglori.com . I'm super exited to inform you that this momma craft enthusiast is back with Creative Paperclay Material once more. Yes I was off for a short time but I was still  working on new ways to use Creative Paperclay Material® and I'm here now ready to share them with you here.
 
Im so happy to be back and so close to mothers day I decided to make this adorable OOAK Art Doll for everyone enjoy.
 
Has always I took tons of step by step photos to make the full tutorial a lot easier to follow.
 I hope you enjoy this mother and child angels the same way I relish making this tutorial and crafting them here for all to adore in this your Creative Paperclay Material® blog post.
 
Have fun crafting my friends.
Sincerely
Gloriann Irizarry
#bygloricom
#artbygloricom
 
 

Materials

Paverpol® Clear Textile Hardener
Paverpol®  Light Skin Color Textile Hardener
Stainless steal wire
Cheese cloth
T-shirt fabric dyes
Aluminum foil
Small glass bottle
Swarovski crystals
Jewelry wings findings
Wooden Dowels
 
 
 
 
Choose your favorite tools and steel wire to create the dolls armature.
I mostly use 16 to 18 gauge, but the size will be depending on the size you want the final piece to be. 

  
 
To create the armature for the child cut 3 even length wires aprox 12 to 16 inches long depending on the size you want your final piece to be. you can tell the size by the glass bottle you choose.
 I added the wire cutter tool in the photo for size reference.
 
 

 
Now twist two of the wires tightly together to create the body of the child.

.
 
Bend in half the third cable to create the child head.

 
Thing the cables to create the child neck. 
 
 
 
Place it on top of body wires and  the twist the hands together .
 
 
Twist them tight together to the where you want your child shoulder to create the arms.

 
Now determine where you want the child's shoulder to be and stop
curling the wire so you can  bend it down to create the torso.

 
Find where you want the child's waist to be and attach the wire by curling it around it.

 
Make sure you use your tool to tightly secure everything together.

 
Ok now for my doll's body I used a small cider glass bottle, but you can use your favorite beverage bottle has long it is glass and  it is close to your desired final doll size.
I like to use glass bottles due to be heavier and will support the child weight.
 If the chosen bottle is not glass,  make sure you weight the bottle with some sand or glass beads. 
 
 
To cover the bottle with Creative Paperclay Material® roll a sheet 1/4 thick and cover the bottle entirely. Cover the top of the bottle and secure the wooden dowel. Set aside to dry.

 
Cut some aluminum foil into some 2 inches long strips. Cutting into strips will  make it easier to secure them and fill the necessary parts of the armature.
 
 
Make sure the Creative Paperclay Material® is completely dried and the wooden dowel is secured. If it is use the third remaining lose wire around the wooden dowel to create the adult hands. 

 
Wrap some of the strips of aluminum foils to the center dowel and lightly sculpt the torso with it.

  
 
Make sure you secure the aluminum foils and shape the doll torso to the neck of  bottle.
You need the arm to be extra long, but don't worry the extra wire will be used to attach the child armature to the mothers.

 
To add the child's armature to the mom use the extra longs wires hands. Twist them around child starting on the chest area. Have in mind were you wan the arm of the mom to be holding the kid. the wire will be the raw bone of the final product pose. Once you find the pose you are happy with secured the wire with the pliers it in place. Use the tool to make sure you have a very tight fit.

 
Move the armature in place to the desire pose. now cover the kid's torso with strips of the  aluminum foil to give the child some meat to those cute little bones. The more attention you pay to this process the less clay will be needing  and it will be much lighter for mom to hold and not tip over.

 
Once you are completely satisfy with the pose start covering the entire piece  with a light layer of Creative Paperclay Material® and set aside for that layer to dry completely.

 
Setting aside to dry in between layers will safe you headaches later. This process will secure firmly the figure pose in place and will make it easier to handle for you when is time to set the  next layer.
 
 
Keep adding some more layers of Creative Paperclay Material® and details for example work the  shape of their heads hands legs. Once you are happy with the result set it aside to completely dry. Important note is make sure you always make the sculpt a little thinner in shaped. You will be using custom dyed cotton cheese cloth with the Paverpol® Fabric Hardener and this process will increase the Creative Paperclay Material® sculpt thickness. But it is ok this process will help strengthen the sculpt thanks to the fabric Paverpol® soaked layers you will be add later on.

 
 
Now for all my Paverpol® Sculpts like to dye my owns cotton cheese fabrics. I also dye the Paverpol® brand fabrics and they work very well.  If you don't want to dye them is ok, but I find it fun and more detailed when I color my own fabric and use the clear Paverpol®  intead of the Paverpol® Bronze. If you are interested on learning how I dye mine here is a quick view to the steps. Remember to always follow the dye manufacturers instructions. It will help you achieve the color result you are looking for. For this doll I used Liquid Rit color dyes.
I find them easier to handle and dye colors in small batches too.  
 
 
Start by cut a good length of the cheese cloth. I personally like to cut  approximately a yard at the time and set the yard  in a big deep glass bowl. Cover it completely with the dye ration mixture of your choice and  heat in the microwave. I follow the dye manufacturer instructions specially for the  
temperatures and the times. Have in mind the times and temperatures will vary per microwave and liquids volumes. Personal note. The longer your simmer the cotton in the liquid the more vibrant the final color will be. I had added extra dyes and over nights to achieve the deeper tones I wanted for the Angel Mom's rich burgundy red dress. I wanted to look like a red wine glass. 
Another note for you to know the Paverpol® will always add a little darker shade to the final cotton. I trick I found to help me achieve the right color while dying the fabric is lit wet. most likely it will be the same or close to tone of color you will have once you soak is with the Paverpol® Fabric Hardener and it dries. Probably because went it dries it still give the sensations is wet but is rock solid. I love it!

 
The longer you leave the cotton cheese cloth in the water dye the colors will look more rich and vibrant. Don't be afraid to leave it over night I have done that.  Once you are  happy with the color dip. Take the fabric off the fabric dye and wash all the excess dye under running cold water. Then rinse it again with  your favorite smelly detergent soap and rinse again it under very cold water.
This will ensure you a nice clean fabric to work with. Some times there will still be dye when you  Paverpol® soak it but is ok once the Paverpol® dries there is no problem because it seal the fabric.
 
 
Before you use the  clear Paverpol® Pour it to different tight seal container. This way you will not  get the main tub all colored with the bleeding of the fabrics dyes and will
always have a nice clean clear batch to work with other color fabrics
If the Paverpol® is to thick I add a little bit of distill water to make it a little easier to handle.  
 
 
For the face and body parts use your Paverpol®  Light skin color with white cheese cloth. Soak the white cloth with the Light Skin Paverpol® then cover the face, hands, legs and torso.

 
Cut the cheese cloth in workable strips. Soak one and wrap the Paverpol® soak up fabric around the doll extremities tight to shape the legs, hands and head.

 
Soak more strips of white cheese cloth and cover all the child body.
 
 
To give the effect of movement to all my dolls hairs use a main piece. It could be the same color of the hair or if you haven decided like me set the main shape in the skin tone Paverpol®.
Use aluminum foil to secure the mom hair shape in place while it dries.
 

 
Cut has much or little of the aluminum foil again to secure the shape of the child hair in  place.
Soak some white cheese cloth with  Paverpol® skin color add the desire hair share and let is fully cure. It is easier to work the final hair if you let it fully dried.  

 
To create the Mom's dress make sure to always measure the length of the custom dye fabric before you cut the length.

 
I used two different shades of burgundy dye fabrics. they were both dyes with the same color but one was left more than the other in the dye. Cut three pieces of each shade for volume.

 
To make it easier to handle the  Paverpol® soaked dress  pre sewn each panel and 
create a raw version of the skirt.
 
 
Make sure you soak each panel of the fabric completely with the Clear Paverpol®.
Before adding the soaked fabric panels to the doll  make sure you remove any excess  Paverpol® so is not too heavy to shape the fabric and sculpt the movement in place.
 
 
This is how you want the Paverpol® soaked fabric to look.
Not too wet not too dry. 
 
 
In order to secure the fabric to the Creative Paperclay covered bottle
 use a little of the Clear Paverpol® to the waist of the doll.


Do the same sewing technique for the second tone of the doll skirt.
This layer will add more volume to the doll dress.
.

 
Pre measure the length of threat the waist before you cut it.
 
 
 
Soak the panels of  skirt on the Clear Paverpol® remove any excess & place it around the doll waist.
 
 
Cut some strips of the coordinating color soak it up in the Clear Paverpol®
create the top portion of the doll dress.

 
To create some flow and movement use some aluminum foil and layer it under it.
 Use some Aluminum foil to hold the desire shape.
  
 
Keep repeating this step all over the piece using aluminum foil and your hands to separate
 the fabric and give it a unique flowing movement look.

 
The Paverpol® soak strips of cheese cloth fabrics can be spread open and shaped when is wet.
I use my hands but have in mind this is a very messy job
and the fabric dyes might bleached out to your hands too.

 
To create the child's dress cut some strips of the light pink cotton and soak them with Clear Paverpol® 

 
Wrap the  Paverpol® soaked light pink cottons strips around the child body and torso.
Wrap the hands and create the long sleeves and suit. Set side to dry.

 
 
Once is dried lets make the childs skirt. To give some volume to the dress skirt use a piece of aluminum foil and prop it up in place while the Paverpol® soak skirt dries.

 
Wrap and shape the aluminum foil all around the child waist.

 
Add the Paverpol® soaked fabric to the aluminum foil.
Add 3 to 4 layers of fabrics adding to much will make the piece too heavy and till tip over

 
Add accent colors of fabrics to create a deep perception and interest to the skirt

 
Make sure you pin the wet layer in  any shape you want the fabric to take when it dries.
 Pinning the piece will help you ensure you will give it enough time to dry holding it.

 
Choose your favorite color of fabric for the hair soak it with Clear Paverpol® and play with the shape untill you find the proper flow you are looking for.
Use some pins to secure the curls and folds in place while the Paverpol® soaked fabric hairs dries.
 
 
The best time to add any accents of jewelry finding is when the Paverpol® still a little damp. That's the perfect time for you to add any details you want like any jewelry wings findings, buttons, flat heads and Swarovski crystals details. Just have fun with it! 

 
Make sure you use extra pin to securely all the hairs folds. Prop with aluminum foil to help the curls  stay in while the clear  Paverpol®  dries. The aluminum foils works pretty good for this purpose it seems to help holing the fabric in place and removes pretty
good if the fabric is not too wet when you prop it. If you are happy with the fabric flow movement and the shape of the piece feel free to set it aside and dry overnight. Once the art doll is completely dry you can now very carefully start removing all the pins and aluminum foils.
You will be surprise with the final results.
 
I hope you enjoy this tutorial. If you find it helpful feel free to like and share for everyone else to enjoy. Feel free to show us your own Creative Paperclay Material creations with the #CreativePaperclay on your social media shares.  


Thank you for watching and stay tune for more tutorials coming soon.