"Inspired by Rain and Flowers" - Rainstick Tutorial

Listening to the rain, and watching my flowers emerge and bloom this spring has gotten my creative side geared toward nature and all her beauty. I think that the sound of rain is something soothing in the heat of Summer's drought, and so the idea came to me of making a rain stick for those months to come. Now, being a person who recycles almost everything that comes her way, I wanted to use things that are common and readily available to everyone, for this, my first post for Creative Paperclay.

Materials and Tools Needed:

Creative Paperclay

Cardboard tube from wrapping paper or mailing tube, about two inches wide, and preferably thick-walled

Brown paper grocery bags

Masking Tape

Duct tape (optional)

2 lids from the ends of canned juice

Aluminum foil or a few soda/pop cans

White glue (you know the old school one I'm talking about)

Cord or heavy string

Scissors

Rice or small beads or plastic pellets

Acrylic Paint and brushes

STEP ONE:

________

1. Open up one brown bag by cutting it down one side and removing the bottom to make a flat sheet. Soak it in water until saturated. Then crumple it up, and lay it flat to dry, making sure to leave it wrinkled-looking.

2. Meanwhile, cut tube to desired length. Shorter will be stronger, but you want it to be a couple of feet long, if possible. Don't squash it flat as you cut. Use a sharp blade rather than scissors if necessary.

3. To make the insert, which will create the chambers in the tube (image 'A' in Step One diagram) for the rice or beads to bounce off and create the sound, do one of two things: Either tear off a piece of aluminum foil twice the length of your tube, crease it length-wise until it is about 1 -1/4 to 1 -1/2 inch wide, OR cut open some aluminum cans, removing the top and bottom, and cutting down the length of the can to make a flat sheet of aluminum. That sheet will need to be cut into strips, then stapled together to make a long strip twice the length of your tube. Yes, aluminum cans can be cut with regular scissors, and stapled with a desk-type stapler. It's really thin. You can get three strips from a regular-sized can. I used two cans. The foil will make a dull, soft sound, and the aluminum cans will create a sharper tinkling sound, more like rain. I prefer the cans.

4. Accordion-fold the entire strip, then pull open somewhat to insert it through the tube. You might have a little trouble getting it to the other end. Wrap a long piece of your string around one end, crimp it over the string, then thread the string through, and gently pull the strip into the tube. Fold the ends of the strip over the ends of the tube on the outside (image 'B' in Step One diagram), and tape them securely to the outside of the tube. Staples are good here, too.

5. Tape a juice can lid to ONE end of the tube ( image 'C' in Step One diagram) after the strip has been inserted and fastened to the tube at both ends. If the lid is wider than the tube, that's great. The wider the finished end, the better. We'll fill in the difference with the clay. Add a couple of good handsful of rice, beads or pellets. About 1/4 cup is perfect for a two foot tube. Less is better here, than more. Put your hand over the open end, and tip it up to see how it sounds before you add the other lid. If you used foil, and don't care for the sound, now's the time to switch to the repurposed cans. Once you are satisfied with the amount of rice, and the sound, tape the other lid to the open end of the tube. Don't substitute any other material for the ends, as the metal will make a difference in the sound. You can use a different lid, as long as it's not coated in a plastic. A jar lid would work.

6. If your tube seems a little too fragile, you can reinforce the tube with more paper from grocery bags. Open it up and remove the bottom, then tape one edge along the length of the tube, roll it tightly, then tape shut along the entire length. Do as many layers as you need to make the walls of your tube strong. Better to take a little more pain at this point, than be disappointed later when someone squeezes too hard. This is why a mailing tube would be a benefit, but all I had was a wrapping paper tube and it worked great.

7. Fill in the difference between the juice can lids and the sides of the tube at this point, but only at ONE end (image 'D' in Step One diagram). I like to smear glue on the surface that I'm applying the clay to, then let it dry just enough to be tacky. It will help the clay adhere better, adding to the longevity of your work. You don't have to be neat yet, because you'll add another thinner layer of clay once this one dries. You can easily mess up the first end while working on the second one, so be patient. When the first end has become relatively dry, you can do the other end.

Now for the patience that it takes to let it dry completely. This could take several hours or even a day, if it's humid. If you get a few cracks, just wet the cracks, fill them with fresh clay, and let dry again.

8. Once the ends are both dry, wrap a wide piece of masking tape or duct tape around each end, leaving half the tape off the end of the tube (image 'E' in step One diagram). Cut the tape that extends over the end into tabs, and fold them tightly down over each end. This is the main thing holding the end together, so wrap the tape at least twice.

STEP TWO:

_________

1. Cover the entire end, and up the sides of the tube about two or three inches with a thin layer of clay, making designs in it, if desired (image 'B' in Step Two diagram). Use a little glue first so the clay will stick well. Again, it's best to do one end at a time and let it dry, rather than trying to do both. Make sure that the end is very flat and that the tube will balance and set on it's end before the clay dries. Repeat with the other end, and let dry completely. (Image B in diagram Two)

2. Cut your now dried crumpled paper into the proper size to cover your tube. I had some from another project, and though they were all smaller pieces, I used three of them. Made no difference. I covered the seams later with string. You might be able to get one piece that will wrap around and cover your entire tube (image 'A' in Step Two diagram).

3. Pour some glue into a small container, and thin it down with a few drops of water, if needed to make it spreadable. Using a flat brush, spread it over the surface of your paper, on the wrong side, to within a quarter inch of the edges. Wrap the paper around the tube, smoothing it to remove air pockets, then use the brush to glue the edges down. Let it dry a bit.

4. While the paper dries some, cut a long ( 3 feet or so) piece of string, and submerge it slowly into the glue by pushing it down with the flat brush. You might have to thin the glue a little more, but don't get it too watery. You want the entire string submerged in glue, and you will get a little messy at this point, so just hole onto the last end of the string, and dip your fingers if you have to. Then, hole the brush in one hand and start slowly pulling the string out of the glue, letting it slip between the brush bristles while you pull it up. that will remove the excess glue, and keep you somewhat less messy. Then you need to wrap the string around the tube in a random pattern. The way I did this was to get it started before pulling the entire string from the glue. Once I had it wrapped a time or two around the tube, I just turned the tube and let it wrap as the string was coming up out of the glue. Or you could have someone hold the tube and turn it while you wrap if you want. You canuse shorter pieces if you hide the ends well. Let it dry completely.

5. Now the fun part. Using the Creative Paperclay, decorate your rainstick in any fashion that pleases you. I have a passion for all things botanical, so leaves and flowers were an easy choice for me. Use glue to adhere the wet clay to the tube. I put the leaves on with glue, then textured them with veins while on the tube, rather than doing it beforehand, so that they wouldn't get smashed (trial and error).

Do just a part of your tube at a time. You can easily distort something while working in another area. Do a section, let it dry, do another, and so on. You might even come up with a

new idea as you add things. I was originally going to do only leaves, but a few flowers bloomed out. ;-). Then paint it in your choice of colors and waa-la!! You now can listen to the sound of rain in the middle of August while your real flowers are withering in the heat.

Here's my finished rainstick. Hope you like it!

I can also be found at my personal blog http://nightanddayartetc.blogspot.com/, and Facebook https://www.facebook.com/pages/Night-and-Day-Polymer-Clay-and-Etc/128555793830546, as well as at The Hive http://creatingthehive.com/signup/debbieluttrell

Paperclay is for kids too!

And now that school is out you might want to come up with some things that the children will enjoy doing and that will make them feel as if they have accomplished something on their own. I thought to myself that Summertime would also be a good time to make ornaments for Christmas.  I started this project by simply rolling out some paperclay and using a cookie cutter to cut out some Angels........

After cutting out a couple of Angels, and poking holes in their wings, I let them dry overnight. Next day after they were dry I used acrylic paints to paint them. Once the acrylic paints were dry, I spray sealed them and added a ribbon in the hole which was poked in the paperclay the day before.

They turned out very pretty and would be so simple easy for children to make. I hope you will get some Creative Paperclay and let your children take their projects to a whole new level, you'll be glad you did  You can purchase Creative Paperclay from their blog or website. You'll be glad you did.

P.S. You can use many things to make your ornaments out of, cookie cutters, cookie molds, candy molds, or just put something together freehand. It's all good and all fun!!

Light Switch Cover Girl

There is no need for your light switch covers to be boring anymore! Here's what you'll need for this project:

Light Switch Cover

Creative Paperclay

Gesso

Rolling pin

Non-stick craft pad or wax paper to roll out paperclay

Craft knife or butter knife

Pencil

Acrylic Paint, Paint Pens

Decoupage Glue or Glue that Dries Clear Diluted With Water

Interior Varnish

Plastic bag to keep screws in.

What to Do:

1.  Paint light cover with 2-3 very thin layers of gesso. Allow to dry. Be careful to maintain open holes for screws in the light cover.

2.  Roll out a lump of paperclay to a very thin layer - about 1/16th of an inch. Make sure that enough paperclay is rolled out to cover light switch cover.

3.  Cover light switch cover with paperclay, cut around the edges, poke out the screw holes, and the actual switch area. Smooth paperclay around edges of light switch cover but do not allow paperclay to go over the edge of the cover. This will prevent the cover from fitting flush on the wall.

4.  Let your paperclay base dry.

5. Once dry, pull gently on the paperclay or bend the light cover slightly. If the paperclay base comes up from the light cover, remove it and apply decoupage or white glue full strength. If the base does not come up, proceed with project.

6.  Roll a small ball and a long, thin snake out of paperclay. The ball will become the Light Switch Cover Girl's head, the snakes will become her arms and legs.

7. With your pencil, lightly draw your girl onto the light switch cover. No need for details of the face, just a round shape where her head will go, a neck (around the top screw hole), her dress (or if you want to make a boy, his suit). Leave room for the face, arms, and head to be built onto the clay base and protrude.

8.  Take the small ball, flatten it a bit and work in into the paperclay base with a bit of water. Add facial features like a small nose, some lips, and hair if you wish.

9. Cut two small arms and work them into the clay base with some water. I like to put my girl's hands on her hips, but feel free to build your arms however you wish.

10. Cut two small legs...add these to your clay base. Always be sure to stay on the flat part of the light switch cover. Otherwise, your cover may not fit flush on the wall.

11. Allow your newly built girl (or boy) to dry. Once dry, paint to your girl to your liking. Finish with varnish, make sure the edges get a bit of this coating. Add a second coat once dry.

12. And now you have your own Light Switch Cover Girl! Imagine the possibilities! How many light switches do you have? Great for gifts as well!

Thanks for reading!

  



"Inspired by Rain and Flowers" - Rainstick Tutorial

Listening to the rain, and watching my flowers emerge and bloom this spring has gotten my creative side geared toward nature and all her beauty. I think that the sound of rain is something soothing in the heat of Summer's drought, and so the idea came to me of making a rain stick for those months to come. Now, being a person who recycles almost everything that comes her way, I wanted to use things that are common and readily available to everyone, for this, my first post for Creative Paperclay.

Materials and Tools Needed:

Creative Paperclay

Cardboard tube from wrapping paper or mailing tube, about two inches wide, and preferably thick-walled

Brown paper grocery bags

Masking Tape

Duct tape (optional)

2 lids from the ends of canned juice

Aluminum foil or a few soda/pop cans

White glue (you know the old school one I'm talking about)

Cord or heavy string

Scissors

Rice or small beads or plastic pellets

Acrylic Paint and brushes

STEP ONE:

________

1. Open up one brown bag by cutting it down one side and removing the bottom to make a flat sheet. Soak it in water until saturated. Then crumple it up, and lay it flat to dry, making sure to leave it wrinkled-looking.

2. Meanwhile, cut tube to desired length. Shorter will be stronger, but you want it to be a couple of feet long, if possible. Don't squash it flat as you cut. Use a sharp blade rather than scissors if necessary.

3. To make the insert, which will create the chambers in the tube (image 'A' in Step One diagram) for the rice or beads to bounce off and create the sound, do one of two things: Either tear off a piece of aluminum foil twice the length of your tube, crease it length-wise until it is about 1 -1/4 to 1 -1/2 inch wide, OR cut open some aluminum cans, removing the top and bottom, and cutting down the length of the can to make a flat sheet of aluminum. That sheet will need to be cut into strips, then stapled together to make a long strip twice the length of your tube. Yes, aluminum cans can be cut with regular scissors, and stapled with a desk-type stapler. It's really thin. You can get three strips from a regular-sized can. I used three cans. The foil will make a dull, soft sound, and the aluminum cans will create a sharper tinkling sound, more like rain. I prefer the cans.

4. Accordion-fold the entire strip, then pull open somewhat to insert it through the tube. You might have a little trouble getting it to the other end. Wrap a long piece of your string around one end, crimp it over the string, then thread the string through, and gently pull the strip into the tube. Fold the ends of the strip over the ends of the tube on the outside (image 'B' in Step One diagram), and tape them securely to the outside of the tube. Staples are good here, too.

5. Tape a juice can lid to ONE end of the tube ( image 'C' in Step One diagram) after the strip has been inserted and fastened to the tube at both ends. If the lid is wider than the tube, that's great. The wider the finished end, the better. We'll fill in the difference with the clay. Add a couple of good handsful of rice, beads or pellets. About 1/4 cup is perfect for a two foot tube. Less is better here, than more. Put your hand over the open end, and tip it up to see how it sounds before you add the other lid. If you used foil, and don't care for the sound, now's the time to switch to the repurposed cans. Once you are satisfied with the amount of rice, and the sound, tape the other lid to the open end of the tube. Don't substitute any other material for the ends, as the metal will make a difference in the sound. You can use a different lid, as long as it's not coated in a plastic. A jar lid would work.

6. If your tube seems a little too fragile, you can reinforce the tube with more paper from grocery bags. Open it up and remove the bottom, then tape one edge along the length of the tube, roll it tightly, then tape shut along the entire length. Do as many layers as you need to make the walls of your tube strong. Better to take a little more pain at this point, than be disappointed later when someone squeezes too hard. This is why a mailing tube would be a benefit, but all I had was a wrapping paper tube and it worked great.

7. Fill in the difference between the juice can lids and the sides of the tube at this point, but only at ONE end (image 'D' in Step One diagram). I like to smear glue on the surface that I'm applying the clay to, then let it dry just enough to be tacky. It will help the clay adhere better, adding to the longevity of your work. You don't have to be neat yet, because you'll add another thinner layer of clay once this one dries. You can easily mess up the first end while working on the second one, so be patient. When the first end has become relatively dry, you can do the other end.

Now for the patience that it takes to let it dry completely. This could take several hours or even a day, if it's humid. If you get a few cracks, just wet the cracks, fill them with fresh clay, and let dry again.

8. Once the ends are both dry, wrap a wide piece of masking tape or duct tape around each end, leaving half the tape off the end of the tube (image 'E' in step One diagram). Cut the tape that extends over the end into tabs, and fold them tightly down over each end. This is the main thing holding the end together, so wrap the tape at least twice.

STEP TWO:

_________

1. Cover the entire end, and up the sides of the tube about two or three inches with a thin layer of clay, making designs in it, if desired (image 'B' in Step Two diagram). Use a little glue first so the clay will stick well. Again, it's best to do one end at a time and let it dry, rather than trying to do both. Make sure that the end is very flat and that the tube will balance and set on it's end before the clay dries. Repeat with the other end, and let dry completely. (Image B in diagram Two)

2. Cut your now dried crumpled paper into the proper size to cover your tube. I had some from another project, and though they were all smaller pieces, I used three of them. Made no difference. I covered the seams later with string. You might be able to get one piece that will wrap around and cover your entire tube (image 'A' in Step Two diagram).

3. Pour some glue into a small container, and thin it down with a few drops of water, if needed to make it spreadable. Using a flat brush, spread it over the surface of your paper, on the wrong side, to within a quarter inch of the edges. Wrap the paper around the tube, smoothing it to remove air pockets, then use the brush to glue the edges down. Let it dry a bit.

4. While the paper dries some, cut a long ( 3 feet or so) piece of string, and submerge it slowly into the glue by pushing it down with the flat brush. You might have to thin the glue a little more, but don't get it too watery. You want the entire string submerged in glue, and you will get a little messy at this point, so just hold onto the last end of the string, and dip your fingers if you have to. Then, hold the brush in one hand and start slowly pulling the string out of the glue, letting it slip between the brush bristles while you pull it up. That will remove the excess glue, and keep you somewhat less messy. Then you need to wrap the string around the tube in a random pattern. The way I did this was to get it started before pulling the entire string from the glue. Once I had it wrapped a time or two around the tube, I just turned the tube and let it wrap as the string was coming up out of the glue. Or you could have someone hold the tube and turn it while you wrap if you want. You can use shorter pieces if you hide the ends well. Let it dry completely.

5. Now the fun part. Using the Creative Paperclay, decorate your rainstick in any fashion that pleases you. I have a passion for all things botanical, so leaves and flowers were an easy choice for me. Use glue to adhere the wet clay to the tube. I put the leaves on with glue, then textured them with veins while on the tube, rather than doing it beforehand, so that they wouldn't get smashed (trial and error).

Do just a part of your tube at a time. You can easily distort something while working in another area. Do a section, let it dry, do another, and so on. You might even come up with a new idea as you add things. I was originally going to do only leaves, but a few flowers bloomed out. ;-). Then paint it in your choice of colors and waa-la!! You now can listen to the sound of rain in the middle of August while your real flowers are withering in the heat.

Here's my finished rainstick. Hope you like it!

I can also be found at my personal blog http://nightanddayartetc.blogspot.com/, and Facebook https://www.facebook.com/pages/Night-and-Day-Polymer-Clay-and-Etc/128555793830546, as well as at The Hive http://creatingthehive.com/signup/debbieluttrell

Rose by Brenda

Good Morning all -

Today is my first day here at Creative Paperclay and I am so excited to share my rose tutorial with you.  I am mostly going to be featuring my clay projects for my cards and or scrapbook pages, but today I wanted to see if I could actually make a 3D rose.  I've been making these roses out of scrap paper and love the way they turn out, so I thought I'd probably be able to make them out of the paper clay also.  I am using this rose for a project for my mom, it was supposed to be for Mother's day but I was running a bit behind and somethings were taking longer than others so I will be at least sharing the tutorial with you.  Once the project is complete I will share it also.  So let's start:

First I rolled out my paper clay with my acrylic roller.  I purchased a package of plastic mats (2 per pack) at the Dollar Tree to use for my paperclay.  Depending on how big or thick you want your rose is what determines the thickness of your clay.  I rolled it to 1/4" thick and used a 6 petal flower cookie cutter and cut 3 flowers.

(yes I really am working on a mat here, I promise)

Then you cut 1 petal out of one of the flowers, then 2 petals out of another flower and then cut the next flower in half.

Take the 5 petal flower and mold the seems together, careful as not to distort the petals though.  Next take your 4 petal flower and do the same, the 3 petal flower the same, 2 petal the same and cut most of the tip off the end;

and the single petal kinda just squish it and form a ball with a center hole.  The second 3 piece petal is discarded, and I used it to form the leaves freehand.  Just roll a bit between your fingers forming a teardrop.  I then used a toothpick and added some veins in it.

Then layer the pieces together.  I did use a bit of white glue to attach them, but if your clay is pretty moist yet it will adhere together nicely by itself by smooshing it a bit, but I just always use a bit of white glue as an extra precaution. 

Then adhere the petals to the side of the flower, also using a bit of white glue and smoothing out the back.  It really doesn't need to be perfect, especially if you will be adhering it to another project (like I will be doing in the near future).

I then set the paperclay aside and let it dry.  My clay actually needed a couple of days and that might be because of all the moisture in the air right now.  You do really want it to be perfectly dry though before you paint it. 

I painted the rose with Rose Bouquet Acrylic and the leaves with Leaf Green Acrylic by Anita's All Purpose.  The highlights of the rose were made with Bronze 3D Paint and the leaves were highlighted with Metalic Green 3D Paint, but sponged on. 

You can really see how it shimmers.

I am very happy with my first real 3D project with paperclay and can't wait to show you how I used this fabulous flower on a project coming soon.  I hope you have also enjoyed my creation and hope to you see you back here again real soon.

~~Brenda

Paperclay Pencil Holder

I was think about making a Father's Day gift that Dad could use in his office and came up with this Pencil Holder. I am really into Steampunk right now and it's manly! so this has a Steampunk Theme to it... Hope you like

Supplies:

Glue Dots ®: craft and continues Lines

Creative Paperclay

Pencil Holder from UsArtQuest

Acrylic Paint: Latte

Brown Ribbon

Amazing Putty to make a mold of Gears

Gold and copper paint

Stamp: Steampunk Background from Viva Las Vegastamps!

Metallic Rub-ons from Craf-T Products – these are a metallic cream rub-on to add highlights to embossed images

Directions:

1) Make a Mold of a Gear using Amazing Molding Putty: After you have made the mold – make two or three Paperclay gears. Set aside to dry.

2) Paint Pencil holder with “latte” Acrylic Paint – No need to paint all just the edges – just in case your Creative Paperclay did not cover the whole Pencil Holder

3) Roll out Paperclay to about ¼” thick and wrap around Pencil Holder while still wet. Press Steampunk Background Stamp into clay. Set aside to dry

4) When Creative PaperClay is dry – paint with “latte” acrylic Paint. Paint Creative PaperClay gear with Gold and Cooper Paint. The I used “Sky Blue” Metallic Rub-ons – I added a little of the color to my fingers and rub-on the PaperClay Steampunk stamped image – this help bring out the image in the clay.

5) Use My Glue Dots® Crafts to adhere my Creative Paperclay to Pencil Holder.

6) Used My Glue Dot® Continues Lines to add my ribbon to both the top and bottom of the Pencil Hold to give a finished look. Glue Dots® crafts work great to add the Creative PaperClay Gear to the Pencil Holder for a finishing touch..

Here is a close up photo - where you can see the detail I got in the clay with the stamps. Thanks for stopping by - please check out my personal blog for more of my work. Click Here

Paperclay Forget-Me-Not Photo Album

By Amanda Marks

I found an 8"x8" blank photo album that has been blank since I bought it.  I always wanted to do a mixed media piece with is but wasn't quite sure on what and how to achieve this.  I finally figured it out - PAPERCLAY!  I did sketch out my idea and decided to put Forget-Me-Nots on the front cover.
I apologize that there are no photos of this my camera decided to be difficult (camera took pictures without saving the photos).  Here are some very precise directions on how I did the flowers.


I took the Paperclay and rolled out two long snake like pieces for the branches.  I wet the side of the branch that would meet the album, I took one of my tools to flattened the edges to the book cover.  This way I would not need glue to adhere the flowers or the branches to the album.  To create the flowers I took the clay and rolled five small balls of clay equal or as close in size as possible.  I took one ball at a time a squeezed it flat between my fingers.  I wet the base of each petal and worked them together with a sculpting tool.  I then adhered each flower to the branch with a little bit of water.  I did not use glue on the tree or the flowers.

I decided I wanted the background with texture.  I had some amazing homemade paper that I bought when I was in college and tore it up and added it with gel medium to the background.  I will say I would recommend doing this first then added the Paperclay to the background.  I did this after I made the forget-me-nots.

Since this is my baby book I wanted to create some "baby" embellishments for the front of the book.  I took some more Paperclay, rolled it out and stamped with my baby foot-prints and hand-prints stamps.  I let those dry over night and then decided to emboss them.  My reasoning for this was I am looking for new ways to use this product and experiment with it, why not give it a try.  I took my Tim Holtz Embossing Pad and added gold embossing powder to each one.  I then took my heat gun to set the powder.  There was some areas I missed but I like the way it looked so I took my Time Holtz Victorian Velvet Pad and stamped the remaining area.  I am thrilled with the results and it has really wanted me to get more embossing powder and experiment even more!  I decided that pink really was not working with the background so I colored the pink area purple with one of my Bic Mark-Its.  I was really pleased with how the turned out but it wasn't what I had in mind.  I love the technique but I wanted it to have an unfinished, vintage look opposed to a clean crisp cookie cutter look - I was originally going for.

I also wanted a name plate for the book.  I took the rectangle for the metal punches and made a rectangle plaque.  I stamped AMANDA JEAN ST. VINCENT - AUGUST 20, 1979 with my metal punches.  I did not need a hammer because the clay was wet.  I secured this with a little water and a sculpting tool to the album.

I took the Paperclay and rolled it out with my fondant roller (I bought one just for Paperclay because it has thickness guides).  Trimming the paperclay at the edge of the album for a smooth, even, edge.  I then added water to adhere the paperclay to the album and once used a scultping tool to secure the paperclay to the front of the album.

Taking my Baby Foot and Hand Print Rubber Stamps and stamped them into random areas.  I also have a rubber stamp quote that says:  "We don't remember days we remember memories."  Ceasar Pevase that I used for the background.

I placed the new paperclay around the name plate and since I did not properly piece the new clay to the plaque, it cracked.

I made some slip with dried Paperclay and water.  I put it in a cup with a lid for future use and I filled the crack with a sculpting tool.

I really wanted to see what items worked with Paperclay and through my previous experiment I choose to emboss the paperclay.  I once again used my Tim Holtz Embossing Ink Pad and rubbed the Paperclay with it.  I added the gold embossing powder to the paperclay.  I took my heat tool and melted the embossing powder.

I wanted to keep the cool color scheme but didn't want it to look boyish so I opted for purple.  I took my homemade purple alcohol ink and painted the stamped and embossed images.
I personally am thrilled on how it turned out and I see a couple more of these in my future.