Thursday, November 27, 2014

Creating Sample Tests for Big Paintings

Before I go blindly into creating a big painting, I will do sample tests to see if what I am thinking about will actually look good. It saves a lot of time and may take you off in another direction. I keep the samples around because they may work perfectly in a project down the road or as a collage element in another painting.

Supplies
Creaive PaperClay®
Gesso
Matte Medium
Raw Umber

On a lightly dampened masonite panel, I laid out coils of paperclay in lines and brayered them down flat.
I then laid coils in the opposite direction and brayered them flat creating a cross hatched pattern. You could leave the coils as lines or make circular shapes. The beauty is that you are the master of your universe.

I then added some (patterned) lines to the background for interest plus I wanted these to show up when I stained the piece later.

When it was dry I then coated it with white gesso.

After the gesso had dried it was coated with a layer of matte medium. This gives me more control with the staining.

When the medium has dried, I applied raw umber acrylic paint and immediate wiped off so it was only left in the recesses.

My next step will be to add resin into the holes as a test but that is for another day.

There is so much joy in experimenting — Darlene Olivia McElroy

Monday, November 24, 2014

Creative Paperclay Material® Armature wire contruction helping guide

 
 
Hi and welcome back to Creative Paperclay Material® blog page.
 
It is a beautiful winter day. It is kind of cold and stormy but watching the snow fall sure reminds you how strong and beautiful nature could be. Now this cold winter day  I will show you a couple tips to for  you choose the right kind of  wire to help construct the armature for your  one of a kind Creative Paperclay Material® sculpt creation.  Check these detailed option listed below.
Have in mind that all metals will eventually oxidize, some just a little slower than others and some just not so visibly. This article will include some helpful information to help you choose the best one.
 
The wires choices will be listed from softer to harder strength.
 
Strongest is the Steel Wire Option
 

 
Be careful with steel and iron. These are the worse as the oxide is red so it is very important you choose a Stainless Steel. Stainless Steel is resistant to rust and corrosion because it is impregnated with nickel, chromium, niobium, molybdenum, or titanium. It is the best suitable for larger pieces because it is a lot harder to bend and it is a lot stronger. Steel also come in many gauges and can be also found at your local Hardware store wire section or your favorite Craft Store at the floral or jewelry section.  Make sure it is water resistant because there is nothing worse that after you spend so much time sculpting you come back to a big rust stain on your final painted piece.
 
 
 
Medium Strength is Copper Wire Option
 
 
 
 
You can easy find Copper wire right at your favorite Crafts Store check the jewelry making section. It can be found also at your local Hardware Store in the electric wiring section . Now  they have many colors and gauges to choose from and it will be the project who usually will determine the size you will need not to worry  I will include a very useful chart to help you choose the best wire at the end of this post.
 
 
Now copper is very hardy and  rust free. It is very important  the wire is rust resistant because working with paperclay required water and the clay is rich in moist that can get the wire rusted and those stains will surface and damage your final sculpt. Now have in mind the copper metal is  a lot softer and for that reason I recommend this wire for smaller armatures figurines. Copper is easy to bend and this will help you to create intricate patterns and bend it into shape.
I love this metal for sculpting small figures
 
 
 

Softer Aluminum Option

 
Now one of my personal favorites is Aluminum.  It is my favorite because this metal is both malleable and sturdy. In fact aluminum is the 2nd most  malleable metals. Wire or paper this metal is one of the more useful in the armature construction. Is water resistant and very easy to bend. It also come in different gauges and it can be found at your favorite Craft Store under the floral section or Jewelry making. This wire  can be also be found at your local Dollar Tree. Remember this wire is soft so if you need a stronger hold for example a doll leg or arm it is not recommended, But is good for filler like the aluminum paper foil is well recommended for hollow pieces like 3D Wall Art and many other pieces that required to be lighter weight.
 
Now with this information on hand feel free to have fun experimenting with the many qualities of all these metals and have in mind each property before using them on your future crafting projects .
 
Now I will leave you with a very useful chart so you can get the right size for your next project.
 
 
 
 
 
Have a bless day and remember
 
 
Stay tune for more tips and tutorials here at your Creative Paperclay® Material blog.
 
Sincerely,
Gloriann Irizarry
 
 

Friday, November 21, 2014

Winter Skeleton Snowball Snowman by Rachel Whetzel

It's been CHILLY out in the world, Creatives!! Rachel Whetzel here! All the snow talk on line is making me feel very Wintery, so today, I'm sharing a little twist on a classic Winter icon, using Creative PaperClay® and a LOT of glitter.
I have made a few Skeletons using Creative Paperclay®, but never (I'm not sure WHY...?) any SNOWMEN... so I got started the other day, with a vague snowman/snowball idea in my head. As I worked, I changed directions a little bit, and ended up creating a Skull snowball. I may be a bit partial, but I really REALLY like how she turned out!


WHAT YOU'LL NEED to make your own Snowball Skeleton:
  • Scrap Paper and Tape (I used some old homework from the boys, and some Washi that isn't my favorite) 
  • Creative Paperclay®
  • Paints and Brushes I use Folk Art acrylic craft paints and Krylon Spray paints
  • Pastels 
  • A 3X3 inch (or so) piece of patterned paper. 
  • Yarn or metal pipe cleaners
  • Glue. I used E600 and Crafter's Pick the Ultimate
  • Glitter. I used an old jar of clear glitter I purchased at the thrift store, but you can get it at any crafting or school supply store.
  • Fake Holly or other collar decorations
To start, I create a core for my snowball. Using a core helps me use less clay, and also speeds up dry time, because innards don't need to dry! To create my core, I used a couple pages of old homework from my boys, and rolled them up into a ball. Then, to keep the shape, I wrapped the papers up in some of my less favorite Washi tape. Not because it needs to be Washi, but because that's what was close, and I was lazy. Any tape will do. Masking is nice too, because it's easy to shape as you tape. 


Once I had a good basic shape, I pressed Creative Paperclay® over the top, and created a more uniform roundness to the snowball.


When my shape was satisfactory, and while my clay was still wet, I layered on some more clay and shaped it into a face. You can add fresh clay to dry also. In both cases, you should use a bit of water on your finger tips and wiped onto the location you're adding new clay. This helps the two surfaces join well. Some rolled clay for the eyebrow bone, a rolled piece for the nose, and balls at the cheek and chin. Blend all the edges, and shape. I used my fingers for the whole process.


I also added a small round of clay at the bottom of the ball, to help the piece sit in one direction when it's resting on a counter or shelf.


I popped my piece into the oven at a VERY low temp (190 degrees) to speed up my drying time. Then I painted it with white gesso, and added the face of my piece. When I was working on the mouth, I originally tried to make an actual skeleton mouth, but I realized the piece would look more like a snowman if I used "coal" dots instead, so that's what I ended up with. For the eyes, the skeleton look is achieved by painting the black for the hollow eye sockets, and then painting eyes in over that. Notice that the nose is also similar to a skelton's. I think that is key to letting people know this isn't your ordinary snowman. Last, use your pastels to add a rosy glow to your skeleton's cheeks, brow bones, "nose" and chin.


Blend the eye socket area where the white meets the black with some shading. You can use your pastels for this area too. 


Now you're ready for your GLITTER!! I used Crafter's Pick, the Ultimate for this part. I kept the glue thin at the front of the face, and made it thicker around the sides and forehead.  I didn't put any glue on the eye area.


Sprinkle your glitter on, and while it's drying, get to work on your HAT! To make my hat, I used a large glass to draw a circle, and cut it out of my patterned paper. Then I folded it in 1/2, and rolled it into a cone. I cut a little of the excess off, and taped the inside seam of my cone to hold the shape. Then I glued the outside seam. I tied some yarn, cut the tip of the cone to create a hole the strings would fit through, and pulled the "pom" into the top of the hat. Then I glued the same yarn around the "bottom" of the hat, on the outside of the paper. Once that was dry enough, I glued the whole thing down onto my snowball snowman's head. I also added some glue and glitter to the top to make the hat look a little frosty! All of this gluing was done using Crafter's Pick. 


To create the "collar" on my snowball, I used some vintage Holly leaves and berries that I had saved from a thrift store find I have had stashed for years. For this part, I used my E6000 glue, because I wanted to make sure the plastic holly leaves and berries stayed in place well. 


Once that glue was also dry, I painted just a bit more glue (Crafter's Pick) onto the leaves and berries, and frosted them with some glitter! 


Here she is again! I feel like she needs a name... IDEAS!? 


Thanks for reading! If you'd like to keep up with me, and see more of what I'm up to, I'd also love it if you'd visit MY BLOG and Subscribe! You can also find me on FACEBOOK!

Wednesday, November 19, 2014

Decorated Holiday Faux Layer Cake Project made with Creative PaperClay® by LuLu Lancaster




Hello and Welcome to the Faux Bakery! ;) This is part 2 of my Faux cake Project. You can Find part 1 here Faux Cake Part 1
Part 1 walks you through the basic cake and borders. 

Let's Decorate! For this part you will need the following
The basic cake
a package of Creative PaperClay®
spray adhesive
 I use 3M Super 77 environmentally Friendly Spray adhesive which can be found at most home improvement stores.
Fake snow
assorted plastic mini Christmas Decorations

 
See my pic for ideas :)
and Tacky Glue

I started by creating some mounds on the top of the cake with the clay.

To create height for your decorations, just continue halfway around the top.

Next I took the cake round outside and sprayed it with the adhesive. 
Be sure to read the precautions on the spray can. You may need to wear a face mask.

Place your cake back on the cardboard cake round and you can affix it at this point with some tacky glue to the cardboard.
It is easiest to do this next part on a surface that has been covered in newspaper or Kraft paper.

Now that your round is sprayed, you can take the fake snow and sprinkle it generously all over your cake. Tap off the excess onto the paper covering your table.


For this next step I took small amounts of clay and created mounds at the base.
Use the tacky glue on the backsides of the decorations and set them into the clay mounds.



Continuing around your cake use small decorations to create a border. I tied wireless chenille around the cake and used mini garlands. Using the small decorations create a focal point for the top.

You can sprinkle more fake snow on the top if needed and there you go!


Fresh from the Bakery a cake that will last all season and beyond  :)

Thank you for following along, I hope you have enjoyed
this project.

LuLu Lancaster
LuLusApple Dolls




Sunday, November 16, 2014

Fast Creative Paperclay® Ornaments!

Hello everyone! It is Donna with Memes Art Place!

                                                  

Have you gotten snow yet? Some of my good friends and family received quite a wallop of snow! Minnesota is known for the cold and snow. I am here in the mountains of Colorado, although Colorado has received snow, we have not.......YET!

So today I am showing you how to make some really quick ornaments for gift giving or for using on your gifts.


Here is how to make a super quick ornament! It will take longer to dry then to make!

These are plaster ornaments from Micheal's. They have many shapes and you can use what you would like!
 All you have to so is make simple little balls and roll out a carrot for a nose and apply them using water and slip! Remember slip is made of Creative Paperclay® and water. I also add some white glue to strengthen it. Just mix it all together and store it in a airtight container and you will have your slip ready for when you need it!
 You can also use small cookie cutters, you can find those in the clay department at your hobby store. Add some water and slip and put your shape over it and press it lightly and work it onto the surface. Or if you like you can add white glue under shape. With the snow man, I pushed the round balls flat. Not even with the surface, but not round.

Let your ornaments dry and then paint with acrylic paint and then seal them with a varnish and you are ready to give a homemade gift!

Here you can see how it is not flat on the ornament itself. 


 If you give this a try, I sure would like to see what you did! Please share with us!

This is easy enough for the kids to help. How much fun would they have making ornaments for teachers, friends, and family!

Thanks for stopping by!

If you would like to see what else I have been up to, stop by my blog at Memes Art Place.

Friday, November 14, 2014

Kid's Project: Molded Acorns

Autumn decorations are getting a lot of attention in our house right now, so we decided to make some clay acorns to display.

I had these silicone molds from another project, but they were perfect for working with the clay. 
Silicone acorn molds
For this project, we used Delight™ air dry modeling compound because it releases from the silicone molds so easily.

We pressed a small ball of Delight™ into the molds, turned the mold over (open side down) and pressed the top of the mold to ensure the compound completely filled the mold. Then, we gently pulled away the excess from the edges of the molds.
Delight™ in the acorn mold
When the mold was flexed, the acorns popped right out. We set them aside to dry overnight. Here is a sample of our dried acorns, ready for trimming, sanding, and painting.
Acorns ready for trimming, sanding, and painting
I used scissors to trim the acorns, and jeweler's files to sand some of the cut edges. The Delight™ molded beautifully!! No sanding at all required on the surface of the acorns. Yeah!! I'm not a sanding fan. And it captured the details of the molds.
Trimmed and sanding acorns

I used acrylic paints on these acorns. While the paint was still wet I sprinkled some with mica dust. Here's a sample of our autumn acorn decorations.
Finished acorns made with Delight™
With the addition of some hardware, these would also make great refrigerator magnets or pins and pendents. 

Carole

Chloe

Table Cell Table Cell

Thursday, November 13, 2014

Giving Creative Paperclay® a Faux Age Metal Look

I love old architectural elements and aged metal. If you catch me at the flea market I am hanging out at the vendors who sell this wonderful stuff. This is an example of Creative Paperclay® made to look like an old metal door detail.

Supplies
Creative Paperclay®
Indonesian wood block
Acrylic paint (black & micaceous oxide)
Gold & silver rub
Salt

Apply Creative Paperclay® over an old Indonesian wood block or anything with lots of texture. Let the Creative Paperclay® dry completely.










When dry, paint with a matte black paint and let dry.











Apply gold and silver rub to the highlights.












For a final coat, apply a watered down micaceous oxide acrylic paint and liberally apply salt the wet paint. Let the paint dry thoroughly. The salt will adhere and gives it the gritty texture of age.

Take time to play and make art.

Darlene Olivia McElroy